Friday, June 15, 2012

Tangy Sugar-Free Apricot Jam



I never laid eyes on a fresh apricot until I moved to California.  For a special treat, we might crack open a can of apricots in heavy syrup after dinner, or get some dried in our Christmas stockings, but fresh? Never.  Apricots don't travel well; they really need to be picked when they're super ripe and flavorful, and they won't travel very far that way.  This is one fruit you are really best off buying super-ripe, straight from the grower at a farmer's market; then take them home and cook them up or eat them straight away.

In fact, apricots are at their very tastiest when they are ripe to the point of smooshi-ness.  When you are prepping them, just cut out the really dark bruises or tough scaly patches they sometimes get, (the tough skin doesn't soften as it cooks.) Be sure to use the really ripe soft ones - they are the best of all!

The 2011 California apricot crop was a complete bust, (bloom+rain = sleeping bees= no fruit) so I was unable to make jam.  Because I wanted to use sugar-free apricot jam in my almond butter thumbprint cookies, I wound up buying two different brands of xylitol-sweetened apricot jam.  Phooey.  They both just tasted like..... nothing. 

This recipe, which I adapted from Gourmet Cookbook, could never be called dull.  Tangy, flavorful - oh, boy!  (How good is it? I gave a jar to my friend Shiela, and she confessed to enjoying it so much she started eating it with a spoon straight out of the jar.)

Interestingly, the recipe includes almond extract, which is extracted from the "bitter almond" kernels inside the apricot pit; although you won't be able to detect the flavor of the almond in the jam, the extract enhances the apricot flavor on a very deep level. This jam will not disappoint!

Sugar-Free Apricot Jam
(adapted from Gourmet Cookbook)
A Case of Frog Hollow Seconds

5 pounds ripe organic apricots or apriums
1/3 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
10 tsp calcium water

2 1/2 - 3 cups erythritol
1 - 1 1/2 cups xylitol*
1 1/4 tsp stevia extract powder
7 1/2 tsp low sugar pectin (such as Pomona)
1/2 tsp almond extract
1 tsp unsalted butter (this keeps the jam from foaming up)


If the jars are brand new, wash them and the rings and lids to remove any chemicals left from processing. If they have been sitting in the basement, check them for dust, and wash off any you find. Put the jars and rings into a very large stockpot or canning pot and fill with hot water to cover by an inch or two. Put them on the rear burner of the stove over high heat and bring them to a boil. When they come to a boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and keep them hot and ready.

Following the instructions in your low sugar pectin kit, make calcium water. (I use Pomona brand.)


Meanwhile, prepare the fruit: wash it, dry it, remove the pits, cut the apricots in small chunks and put it in an 8 quart, heavy stock pot, along with the calcium water and the lemon juice. Put it on the stove and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it comes to a full boil.


While the fruit cooks, measure the sweeteners into a medium-sized bowl; if the fruit is sweet, start with the smaller amount - you can always add more later. If the fruit is tart, you can go straight to the higher amount if you wish.  Add the pectin to the sweeteners and whisk them all well to combine.


Cook the fruit until it comes to a full boil, softens and becomes the consistency of chunky apple sauce.  (See picture below.) When the fruit is ready, get a long-handled wooden spoon ready, and gradually add the sweetener mix to the hot fruit, stirring constantly as you pour in the sweeteners. Stir well and frequently to dissolve the pectin and the sweeteners with the fruit and to prevent lumping. Add the almond extract and the butter. (The butter is optional, but keeps the foam in check.) Bring it back to a full boil, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Taste and adjust sweetness as necessary.  Turn off the heat.  Get ready to can. (Don't worry if it isn't as thick as jam; it thickens as it cools.)
This jam is about ready to have the sweetener/pectin mix added


Clear a good sized work surface near the stove, and cover it with clean dishtowels (preferably ones you don't care about!)

Turn the heat off under the pot of jars and move it to the front of the stove so you can reach them easily, and move the jam to the back of the stove so you don't get water into it by accident. (Put the lid on the pot of jam if necessary.) Using tongs or a jar lifter in your dominant hand, and a clean dishtowel in your other hand, carefully remove the lids and rings and drain them on the towels on your work surface. Lift each jar out of the hot water, dump the hot water back into the pot, and carefully guide and transport the hot jar over to the work table, using the towel in your non-dominant hand to support the jars until you get it safely to its destination. Turn it upside down to drain out the extra water. Repeat until all of the jars are drained and ready. Scald your best ladle and wide-mouthed funnel in the boiling water and have them ready with your jars.

Turn the heat back on medium high underneath the pot of water and bring it back to a full boil while you jar the jam.

Now, again using your tongs (or a clean towel, oven mitts, or tough hands!) turn the jars right side up, and line them up to be ready to fill. If you have a wide-mouthed jar funnel (which I so highly recommend - available at any good hardware store, Bed Bath and Beyond, well stocked grocery stores, etc., for less than $5) put it on top of one of the jars.

Grab your best ladle, and bring the pot of hot jam over to your work surface. Carefully fill each jar, leaving 1/4" of space at the top. If you have a wide-mouthed funnel, the bottom should come to just the right spot. If you don't, do your best! If necessary, spoon some out to reach the right level. After you have filled all your jars, use a clean, moist towel to wipe the ring area and the top surface of the jars clean. Again, if you have a wide-mouthed funnel, you are much less likely to spill the jam onto the jars and need to clean them. If you have less than a full jar of jam, put that one straight into use and don't bother to can it.

Put the lids on, followed by the screw tops, and screw them down.


When the water bath comes back to a full boil, reduce the heat to low, and again using your tongs, carefully lower the jars back in one at a time. (The shock of the boiling water can break the jar, which is a big messy bummer.) Boil them all for 10 full minutes, then remove them with your tongs, using the same tong/towel technique described above, and let them cool on the toweled work area. If necessary, work in batches.


Notes from Christine:

* Why the range of xylitol quantities?  The fruit varies widely in how sweet it is; if you have sweet fruit, use the lower amount, if tart, use the higher. You can always start with the smaller amount and add more if it needs it, but you can't subtract it once it's in!


"What's with all of these obscure sweeteners?" Erythritol and Xylitol are sugar alcohols; super low-glycemic, super low-calorie, super low-carbohydrate, and good for your teeth.  

Xylitol is low in carbohydrates and is about as sweet as cane sugar.  It has a fairly neutral flavor, but a little bright, almost pepperminty quality. It can be found easily at a well-stocked health food store or really good grocery store.

Erythritol has 0 carbohydrates and is very neutral in flavor - yay! But it is about 60% as sweet as sugar and is very difficult to find in stores, except in individual packets. As it is 60% as sweet as sugar, it takes quite a bit more to reach the right level of sweetness in a recipe, and this makes proportions difficult.  However, its very neutral profile - and 0 carbs! make it a natural for blending with xylitol and stevia, especially since stevia is so highly concentrated.  It's worth tracking it down by mail-order, or you could make a special request to a grocer to order some for you.

Stevia is a natural, calorie-free leaf extract, super concentrated and very sweet, but with a weird, bitter aftertaste and no volume; due to its highly concentrated state, one teeny-tiny scoopful (which comes in its container) is equal to a teaspoon of sugar. It is easily purchased at Trader Joe's or any grocery store.

Be aware that some Xylitol and Erythritol brands in American packaging are actually imported from China and repackaged. That is why I buy all of these directly from Xylitol USA, http://www.xylitolusa.com/ which manufactures them from North American sources.

4 comments:

  1. Oh! Great I love this jam its sugar free and healthy for me thanks. for sharing. xylitol jam

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  2. My pleasure, Matt! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

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  3. What is the calcium water and what is it for?

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    1. Hi, Lisa. Making jam without sugar calls for a special type of pectin. The brand I use, Pomona, comes with a special packet of calcium that you mix with water and add in a certain proportion to the pectin to activate it. I believe that not all brands of pectin use this.

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