Crack-Eyed Peas

Twenty-plus years ago, a group of friends and I performed a melodrama of our own creation in the long-defunct "Gold Rush Fair" in Novato. After a day of performing our show and walking around in the dust and heat in full costume, we would reward ourselves with a trip to a restaurant in Novato called "Santa Fe Mary's" - also long-defunct, it appears. Santa Fe Mary's served this outstandingly tasty dish of marinated white beans with tortilla chips. Memory is dim on what type of beans they were, just that I had a great deal of trouble controlling myself around them. I have long wondered how to reproduce that delicious dish.

Fast forward.... with the new year approaching, I looked through my Gourmet Magazine Cookbook (RIP, dear Gourmet Magazine. I will miss you.... Bon Appetit will never, never take your place....) But I digress. I was cross-referencing recipes for Hoppin' John, a classic southern dish of black-eyed peas and smoked hog jowls served on New Year's to assure good luck in the coming year. On the facing page was a recipe for something called "Pickled Black-Eyed Peas." Let us be frank, friends; that is a really lousy recipe title. Never-the-less, given my fond memories of the delights of the long-ago bean dish at Santa Fe Mary's, I read the recipe with growing optimism - "Could it be? I think it might..... It is! I think it is!"

Dear reader, I made the recipe, and it was as close to the beans of yesteryear as I could hope. Of course, it being January, the only sweet bell peppers available were from Mexico or Chile. This is just not an option for a locavore gal. Not to worry, finely diced celery is a fine sweet and crunchy substitute, even if it does not provide the desired color. Ahem. I practically ate the entire dish as I was testing it prior to the marination.

Knowing instantly that I had a permanent addition to my entertaining, pot-luck party going, and travel recipe line-up, I committed it to memory and brought the ingredients along on our trip to Joshua Tree with our friends from Alaska the following weekend. Their reactions mirrored our own; "recipe, please!" However, we were all in agreement that "Pickled Black-Eyed Peas" was one of the lamest recipe titles on record, and one that would have prevented any of us from making the recipe, had I not had my vivid memory of a cold beer, fresh tortilla chips, and too-small bowls of similar beans at Santa Fe Mary's long, long ago. "Mais ou sont les haricots d'antan?"

So, I present for your entertainment the newly christened recipe for "Crack-Eyed Peas."

Crack-Eyed Peas

(aka Pickled Black-Eyed Peas) Adapted from The Gourmet Magazine Cookbook: “Serve them on toasts or with grilled or roasted meats”

1 cup dried black-eyed peas, picked over and rinsed
1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼ inch dice*
½ red bell pepper. “ “ “*
½ jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup white wine vinegar
¼ cup minced fresh chives
2 TB minced red onion
1 tsp minced garlic
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Soak peas in cold water to cover by 2 inches, refrigerated, for at least 8 hours (or use quick soaking method; bring to a boil, boil for 2 minutes, then cover and let sit one hour.) Drain.

Transfer peas to a 3 quart saucepan, add water to cover and bring to a simmer. Simmer until just tender, about 20 minutes - but it might be sooner! Check on them frequently when you get to about the 15 minute mark. You really want them to be perfectly tender, NOT al dente. It's okay if they're a little over or undercooked, but perfectly tender is truly perfection. Drain.

Stir peas with remaining ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate, covered, at least 4 hours. Serve chilled or at room temperature - but I prefer them at room temperature - it really brings out the flavors.

*Notes from Christine: I used distilled white vinegar, and it was very tasty. As discussed, if the peppers are not in season, finely chopped celery is an excellent substitute. Also, test the seasonings; I like a little more vinegar, salt and oil than the recipe calls for.

p.s. Why would you bother making just one cup? Do yourself a favor; make at least twice the amount.


Enjoy!

THIS JUST IN: "Crack-Eyed Peas" is slated to be "the Official Recovery Food of the Harvard Ski Team" at an upcoming race. Oh, the fame and the glory!