Whole Hog: Marlena's Soup of Thai Broth, Fat Beans & Chorizo

You know those classical paintings where you see the painter from the rear, painting himself using a mirror, and the mirror continues to reflect the scene, on into infinity? This recipe is a little bit like that! Marlena Spieler, a food writer and recipe creator, recreated this recipe from the taste memory of a soup she ate in Paris. Then she wrote about the meal and the recipe creation in the San Francisco Chronicle. And now, here I am, reprinting the recipe in my blog.......on into infinity.

This recipe is really, really, really good. Now that we're all on a coconut milk/Thai curry paste/lemongrass/ginger roll, let's keep going!

I, of course, used my homemade chorizo from my sausage party with Ondine (http://foodierthanthou.blogspot.com/2010/02/whole-hog-sausage-making-party-with.html) but for those who don't do pork, I hear from friends that soyrizo is actually very good.


Marlena's Soup of Thai Broth, Fat Beans & Chorizo


Serves 4-6 as a starter (CS note: serves 4 as a main course)

This soup was created in flattering imitation of what was served at Ze Kitchen Galerie in Paris.

* 4 to 6 ounces fresh Mexican pork chorizo or Soyrizo
* 4 cloves garlic, chopped
* 2 lemongrass stalks, tops cut off and tough outer layers peeled away; tender inner stalk thinly sliced crosswise (CS note: if you keep peeling, you will find that the center of the stalk really is tender - I hadn't realized it.)
* 1 15-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk (see Note)
* 1 small or 1/2 medium onion, peeled and chopped
* 1 tablespoon chopped ginger
* 1/8 teaspoon yellow curry powder, to taste
* 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin, to taste
* -- Pinch turmeric
* -- Pinch cinnamon
* 2 to 3 tablespoons red curry paste, Thai House brand preferred (see Note)
* 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth
* -- Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
* 1 to 1 1/2 cups cooked beans like Gigandes or pinto, or a 15-ounce can of beans, drained and rinsed
* 1/2 cup Thai basil leaves or regular basil, roughly torn or thinly sliced
* -- Lime wedges, for serving

Instructions: Brown the chorizo or Soyrizo with half the garlic and half the lemongrass in a frying pan, breaking it up into small pieces. Set aside.

For the broth: Pour about 2 tablespoons of the thick coconut cream (which rises to the top of the can of coconut milk) into a medium pan over medium heat. Add the onion and the remaining lemongrass and garlic; cook until the onions and lemongrass are tender.

Stir in the ginger, curry powder, cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and half the red curry paste. Cook a few moments, then add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook for about 15 minutes, or until flavors meld.

Add remaining coconut milk and half of the lime zest or more to taste. Cook a few minutes longer, then remove from heat. The broth can be made ahead to this point.

To serve: Heat broth to just bubbling around the edge. Add remaining red curry paste and stir through. Squeeze a teaspoon or so of lime juice into each bowl. Add several spoonfuls of beans; ladle the hot broth over, then top with a spoonful of chorizo. Sprinkle Thai basil around the chorizo and if desired, serve with a wedge of lime on the side. (CS note: Seasonal Girl just can't bring herself to buy Mexican basil in May. I made the soup without the basil - still quite delicious. I look forward to eating it with basil in a month or so.)

Note: If Thai House Red Curry Paste is not available, choose another brand but taste for heat and adjust downward if needed. (CS note: I used Thai House brand curry paste - it's wonderful. However, 2-3 Tablespoons is a LOT. I used about 1 tablespoon.) Low-fat coconut milk is OK, but the regular, full-fat version tastes richer. To use the coconut cream - the thick part of the coconut milk which gathers at the top - do not shake the can before opening.

Per serving: 306 calories, 12 g protein, 17 g carbohydrate, 22 g fat (16 g saturated), 14 mg cholesterol, 633 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

Wine pairing: Asian flavors are not overpowered by heat from the red curry paste, so several wines will work. Look for something chilled and refreshing like a Prosecco or a rosé such as the 2008 Saintsbury Carneros Vin Gris of Pinot Noir ($15), or the just-released 2009 vintage.

Marlena Spieler is a freelance food writer and cookbook author who divides her time between Northern California and Europe. E-mail her at food@sfchronicle.com or go to her Web site, marlenaspieler.com. Follow her on Twitter @marlenaspieler.

Read more: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/04/04/FDV31C67EA.DTL#ixzz0oDOlDGuQ